[OUR VIEW FROM BREAKFAST]
The beautiful late summer coastal weather continued into day 2. Not wanting to waste a second of sunlight, we started our days early. However, though early for us, not as early as the more seasoned travellers who were already seated and eating by the time we got to the breakfast spread. Regardless, we still managed to snag a table on the balcony each morning! We sipped our caffè, nibbled on cheese and pastries, and soaked in the morning sun while watching the coast wake up and change colour.
When planning the Amalfi Coast, it was recommended by others who had gone and suggested via travel postings to pick a home base and travel along the coast on day trips. Though we considered it, in the end, Mike and I did the opposite. I, as a lover of discovering new hotels and us both concerned for having our evening adventures bound by bus schedules, chose 3 towns to stay in and split our trip up accordingly. We both became quite the efficient packers.
Our first 2 nights were spent in Ravello. After researching and comparing accommodations in Ravello and Amalfi, I decided we got more bang for our buck staying higher up on the hill. With the town of Amalfi only a 20 minute SITA bus ride away, Ravello was home base and Amalfi was our day trip.
A M A L F I
Our 1st beach day! After breakfast, we packed a bag and headed downhill. Once in Amalfi we took to the town, explored the shops, and collected snacks to take to the beach.
Mike found some meats, a ball of fresh mozzarella [the most amazing ball of mozzarella!!!], a bottle of prosecco, and [of course] Limoncello. A fried fish stand caught my eye while en route for meat + cheese and we had to circle back to it before heading to the beach.
LUNCH: C.I.C.A. | Adjacent to bright mural of fisherman on the sea, this little food stand-in-the-wall served up cones of fresh, caught-daily fried seafood | $
Like a kid in an ice cream shop, I lined up excitedly waiting for my turn to order. Cone in hand, I happily lagged behind Mike starring at my fish as he led us to the beach.
Cuoppo Positano: mixed lightly battered and fried seafood including, white fish, shrimp, and squid [7.50€]
We rented 2 chairs + umbrella and planted ourselves on the rocky sand where we sat, ate, and drank until the sun went down. As Mike swam, I contently lounged and read my book while taking intermittent people-watching breaks [my fave past time].
We took the slight chill from the setting sun as our cue to pack up. With dinner reservations still hours away, we continued to explore the town climbing random staircases to who knows where and taking in the newly discovered vantage points.
SNACK: Gran Caffè Amalfi | By default of location [post exploring] and its seaside view, Mike and stopped here for a snack | $
We ordered 2 beers and bruschetta and watched the sun continue its way down. Then, we headed back to the main square to kill time and pick up the souvenirs we spotted earlier in the day…including a leather belt that Mike picked up from a shop that I wish I knew the name. It was small leather store off the heath and path littered with piles of hide, notions, tools, and leather scraps. The owner spoke little to no english and made everything he sold. This was the one time my overactive picture taking failed me!
Still too early for dinner, we sat on the Duomo steps and people watched.
DINNER: Taverna degli Apostoli | Tucked in a little pathway right beside the Duomo steps with only a handful of tables [but possibly more inside], we enjoyed our dinner in the open night air | $$
Though our server was very nice, service was slow; which was to be expected as they were, obviously, short staffed that evening. Mike ordered a fettuccine bolognese [12€] and I kept with the seafood theme and ordered a dish of ‘sauced calamari and potatoes’ [12€]. I found my dish slightly under seasoned but fresh and well cooked. With cathedral views, this restaurant’s location alone made for a very interesting and memorable dining experience.
[VIEW FROM DINNER]
After dinner, we caught the SITA bus back to Ravello. The winding bus ride back to the top of the hill at night was a little nerve wrecking but exciting. The driver took the curves with no deceleration and at times, it looked as though we could fall over the edge of the hill and or crash right into it. We made it back to our hotel in 1 piece. I started my, first of many, pre-packing and then settled in for bed. It was our last night in Ravello.
Up next, Positano!
Lunch @ C.I.C.A.
Snack @ Gran Caffè Amalfi
Dinner @ Taverna degli Apostoli